Choosing the Right Sewing Thread: Spade Poly, Ameto and Overlock

Thread is the cheapest part of a garment and the part most likely to cause trouble. A weak or wrong thread snaps mid-seam, fades after one wash, or shows ugly puckering on fine cloth. The thread costs a few rupees, but a re-stitch costs an hour.

Three things decide the right thread: the fibre and finish, the ply, and whether it is for a sewing machine or an overlock. Get those right and the seam holds, lies flat, and keeps its colour. Here is how the common threads compare.

Spade poly and Ameto thread for everyday stitching

Polyester threads such as spade poly thread and Ameto thread are the everyday choice for most stitching. Polyester is strong, smooth, slightly stretchy and colour-fast, so it runs clean through the machine and holds up to washing. Spade poly is a reliable general-purpose thread, and Ameto is a popular finer polyester many tailors trust for neat topstitching on shirts and dresses.

Cotton thread still has a place on pure cotton garments and where a softer, matte finish is wanted, but it is weaker and fades faster than polyester. For most boutique and tailoring work, keep a wall of spade poly and Ameto thread in your common shades and reach for cotton only when the fabric calls for it.

What 2-ply and 3-ply actually mean

Ply is the number of fine strands twisted together to make the thread. A 2-ply thread is finer and softer, which suits light fabrics, linings and topstitching where you do not want a heavy seam. A 3-ply thread has an extra strand, so it is thicker and stronger and holds up on seams that take strain, like waistbands, kurta side seams and bag handles.

A simple rule at the counter: lighter fabric, lower ply; heavier fabric or high-strain seam, higher ply. Match the needle to the thread too, because a fine 3-ply thread through a fine needle frays. A box of the right tailoring needles in mixed sizes saves a lot of skipped stitches.

Overlock thread for clean edges

An overlock (overlocking) machine finishes raw edges and uses three, four or five cones at once, so it runs through far more thread than a single-needle machine. Overlock thread comes on larger, lighter cones made to feed fast without snarling. Keep a set of matching cones for every colour you use often, because an overlock eats thread quickly during a production run.

For decorative edges, rolled hems and special finishes, woolly nylon and other speciality threads on the loopers give a soft, full edge that ordinary thread cannot. Keep a few cones aside for chiffon dupattas and saree edges where the finish is the feature.

Buying sewing thread in Chennai

Our counter in Rattan Bazaar, Sowcarpet carries spade poly, Ameto, cotton and overlock thread across a full shade range, in spools for machines and cones for overlocking, retail and wholesale. We have supplied Chennai tailors and garment units for over sixty years and can match shades from a sample. Send a photo of your fabric or shade card on WhatsApp at +91 98402 69851 and we will match it before you make the trip.